Featured image courtesy of The Winery at the Holy Cross Abbey
Miners seeking their riches not only brought pick-axes to southern Colorado, but grapevines as well. As it turns out, they struck gold in both endeavors.
Thanks to Colorado Governor George A. Crawford who in 1890 planted 60 acres of grapes and fruit near Palisade in Mesa County. Colorado was producing about 1 million pounds of grapes by an estimated 1,000 farmers in 1910. But there were no true winemakers per se; the grapes were sold to locals who processed and fermented the fruit to share with family, friends and neighbors.
Then prohibition hit.
Fortunately, Colorado State University parlayed a grant from the United States government to plant test plots of vineyards in the now-renowned Grand Valley area near the western slope. Today, in the shadow of the Book Cliff Mountains, some of the state’s original wineries still exist.
In 1977, the Colorado General Assembly enacted the Colorado Limited Winery Act, permitting small “farm wineries” and ultimately opening the door for future commercial wineries. Within the year, Colorado Mountain Vineyards—now operating as Colorado Cellars—opened in Palisade, and still operates as the oldest and largest winery in the state. Fast forward to the 1990’s, when the Grand Valley region became Colorado’s first federally recognized Agricultural Viticultural Area (AVA)—the first step towards establishing a geographical pedigree for Colorado wines.
Despite the government bandwagon effect, there were still doubters and critics who maintained Colorado’s high altitude and often inhospitable climate could not produce a grape worth a swirl in the glass. Experts argued that the state’s terroir—a fancy French noun denoting geographic environmental conditions—could not sustain a respectable wine. The reverse was true.
Take Alfred Eames Cellar’s in Paonia. For the past 25 years, their pinot grapes have flourished in the North Fork Valley’s rugged terrain, the only place in Colorado where this noble grape can be successfully grown. Owner, winemaker, and namesake, Alfred Eames, believes the challenging climate gives his grapes character. His 2010 Pinot Noir and Estate Pinot Noir are among the most respected red wines in Colorado. In a good year, his cellar bottles 2,000 cases, most of which are distributed locally to shops and restaurants in and around Gunnison, Aspen, and Crested Butte.
The prolific fruit orchards on the Western Slope just beg for inclusion in the rising popularity of Colorado’s diversifying wine production. Wineries willingly mingle peaches, pears, apples, and cherries with their grapes to create sweet and semi-sweet fruit wine varieties whose names enhance their reputation. Among those include Colorado Cellar’s Roadkill Red, a semi-sweet light red wine with raspberry undertones, Prairie Dog Blush, and Paradactyl (a combo of pear and apple wine), all out of Carlson Vineyards in Palisade.
Closer to the Pikes Peak region is Wines of Colorado at the base of Pikes Peak in Cascade, which sees hundreds of tourists visit its wine shop each year. In addition to its wine selection, the store sells Mead, an ancient alcoholic beverage—made from fermented honey and often blended with fruit—that has its own loyal following among those who seek its unique handcrafted taste. Down the road in Cañon City is home to the Winery of the Holy Cross Abbey, where vintners produce fruit-driven wines in the historic Holy Cross Abbey, a Benedictine monastery dating back to the 1800’s.
There are also meaderies and wineries in and around Black Forest in Colorado Springs. Both the Latigo Winery and Black Forest Meadery offer free tastings, tours, workshops, and special events throughout the year.
Today, with over 150 licensed wineries and 120-plus grape growers, Colorado’s wine production is considered a bona fide industry and gaining in popularity. Throughout the year, locals gather at festivals to sample wines, looking for the perfect blend. One of the state’s biggest wine events, The Governor’s Cup, features wine tastings and pairings with local chefs and a panel of distinguished sommeliers.
Colorado wine has a history, but it also has a future. It is much like the young girl at school who no one noticed until 20 years later, when her full-bodied merits and sweet, complex finish made her the perfect dinner partner.
Sometimes the very best of life’s simple pleasures are in our own backyard.
